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Guide

Materials, alloys and finishes: how to choose without getting lost

A guide for brands: the key decisions in metal, alloy, colour and finish, and how they affect durability, aesthetics, cost and production.

D'Or Joiers

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What a brand is really deciding when choosing material and finish

  • Aesthetics (colour, shine, texture)
  • Durability and maintenance
  • Wear feel (weight, touch)
  • Compatibility with stones and settings
  • Manufacturing feasibility and quality control

Material and alloy (a practical lens)

In jewellery, “metal” and “alloy” define:

  • hardness and strength,
  • behaviour in manufacturing,
  • and how the finish ages.

If it isn’t final yet, it helps to state:

  • preferred metal (and acceptable alternatives),
  • intended use (daily/occasion),
  • sensitivity to price vs quality.

Finishes: define with a reference, not adjectives

“Matte”, “satin” or “high polish” without a visual reference leads to different interpretations.

Recommendation:

  • provide a photo reference or physical sample,
  • define zones (e.g., outside high polish / inside satin),
  • and clarify what level of micro-marking is acceptable.

Common combinations and risks

  • Finish contrasts require extra control so boundaries are clean.
  • Pieces with many recesses: aggressive polishing can soften edges.
  • Textured surfaces: visual QC changes; agree a standard.

What to ask yourself to choose well (checklist)

  • Is this daily wear or occasion wear?
  • Does weight matter?
  • Are micro-scratches acceptable in high-contact areas?
  • Is plating/colour required?
  • Do stones constrain the process?

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